Cable knit wool, nylon
Pringle of Scotland, Hawick, UK
Since his arrival at Pringle of Scotland in 2013, head designer Massimo Nicosia has pushed research and development in fabric innovation, collaborating with architect and material scientist Richard Beckett to create a series of 3D printed fabrics.
The Autumn/Winter 2014/15 collection marked a defining moment as Nicosia adopted a material, haptic-based approach to design. He focused on the perception of fabrics using the sense of touch.
Nicosia explained his approach: ‘I was trying to create knitwear with structure. It was interesting to work with weaving knitwear, utilising old looms and weaving with traditional techniques. In a sense, it was playing a game between the past and the new, using techniques relevant in the first industrial revolution and embracing technologies that are preparing for the next revolution.’
Together with Beckett, who applied engineering principles to Pringle classics such as twinsets and argyle-patterned sweaters, Nicosia produced next-level knitwear incorporating 3D printed laser-sintered nylon fabric.
Micro-cut powdered nylon was integrated seamlessly into cable-knit cashmere, while diamond-shaped argyle patterns took on a three-dimensional structure with nylon elements stitched onto the wool.
To produce fabrics that could move like traditional cloth, Beckett chose specific machinery with the capacity to build at high definition, creating the complex moveable nylon parts needed to keep the material flexible. The printed sections were handwoven into the knitwear through small hooks on the underside, or stitched on top of the wool.
Object photography © Pringle of Scotland Ltd/National Museums Scotland